Saturday 13 April 2019

"Ishq-e-Dilli"

Despite my many visits, writing a blog about my experiences in Delhi had somehow remained just a wish. This time however, I finally made up my mind to pen down my thoughts about my tryst with the undisputed empress of India's metropolitan cities!

At the first glimpse, the city does indeed seem not much unlike many others; vexed with the same old woes: pollution, ever -exausting rush hours and the never-ceasing rat race for mere existence! With a closer acquaintance however, Delhi begins to intrigue you like a painting splashed with myriad colours- each one vividly distinct; yet blending together perfectly to create that sublime work of art!

"Ishq-e -Dilli" (for the love of Delhi) is a beautifully put together light and sound show I had the fortune of watching; at  'Purana Quila'; one of the oldest forts in Delhi; during my past visit. The spectacular show provides a thoughtful insight into the rich history of the city of Delhi; telling the tale of romance of a 5000 years of historic legacy. The tale begins at "Indraprastha" : the fabled Pandava capital city located at this very place and unfolds through the Mughal era to modern Delhi; wherein generations of rulers cherished their bond with the city- some for the love of its people, some for the admiration of its culture and others for the lust of its power! Centuries have gone by, yet the love for the city has remained unchanged. Even at the present day, the city still holds the same undying charm and continues to entice youth and old; men and women; affluent and humble; and scholars and mediocre; alike.

As one takes a peek into the days of yore, several ancient monuments strewn across the city speak of the glorious yesteryears. Among many such celebrated landmarks is the 'Lal Quila' - an impressive fortress which was built during the reign of Mughal emperor Shah Jahan. The massive- walled citadel built with red sandstone once served as  emperor Shah Jahan's royal palace and headquarters. Some 200 years later, the ramparts of the fortress resonated with the historic nation wide address of the then Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru; thus marking India's Independence from British rule and making 'Lal Quila' a politically significant landmark as well.

India gate; a towering war memorial with the "Amar Jawan Jyoti" ( eternal flame in honour of the unsung warrior) commands a solemn bow.The captivating Humayun and Safdarjung tombs, Jama Masjid and finally the Magnum opus of 'Qutub Minar', the foundation of which was laid by Qutub-Uddin Aibak; mirror the quintessential, somewhat ostentatious Mughal architectural style.

Somewhat lesser known; nevertheless no less significant are the ' Purana Quila' (a fortress built by Sher Shah Suri); 'Agrasen ki Baoli' (an intricately designed stepwell built by the legendary king Maharaja Agrasen; comprising 108 steps engineered to perfection); and Gurudwara 'Sri Bangla Sahib' (the most prominent Sikh worship place associated with the eighth Sikh Guru, ' Guru Har Krishan' ). The list is an endless one!

While old Delhi is quite unplanned; with almost haphazard, overcrowded streets peppered with several of these heritage sites; modern Delhi on the other hand; has a regal air about it; with meticulously planned townships; spotlessly clean neighborhoods and hypnotizingly symmetrical six lane roads. Abutting the roads on either side are skyscraping residential complexes; expensive resorts; swanky movie arenas and shopping malls that bespeak sheer sophistication.

From elegance of 'Raj path' to flamboyance of 'chandni chowk' ; from exceptionally adorable miniatures at ' doll house' to impeccably decked up dainty damsels on Delhi streets; from extravagant malls in upmarket areas to affordable bargain-priced bazaars; and from majestic masterpieces that stand as a testimony to the grandeur of  bygone days to magnificent townships that epitomize the finesse of modern times; Delhi has it all! Indeed, the city is akin to an artful sorceress who has something in her bag to lure everyone!

What draws me time and again; to this unparalled megalopolis however; is the diverse; yet a distinctive culinary heritage it possesses. The city streets are replete with a mind-boggling array of cuisines; that reflect the essense of Delhi's cosmo culture. Be it the tongue-tickling tanginess of  Chaats; the audaciously spicy Indo- Chinese; the succulent meats or the decadent desserts- each of these culinary delights do not merely satiate your hunger; but promise to gratify every single of your five senses!

I was introduced to Delhi's food culture few years ago; during my first visit; when a happy accident brought me to "Bikaner sweets"- a rather unnoticeable little sweet shop at RK Ashram Marg. It was the irresistibly tempting sight of soft 'gulab jamuns' and crispy 'Jalebis' fresh out of the 'kadhai' and right onto your plate; that made it almost impossible for me to ignore the shop. Even today, the gifted hands that work their magic into making each of these treats make sure I visit the shop every single time I visit Delhi. The 40 year old shop sells more than a hundred different varieties of sweets; some traditional and some unheard of! Most people flock here for their special delicacy 'chhaina payasam' which is a perfect blend of two classic Indian desserts- 'rasmalai' and 'rabdi'. The dish which incorporates mushiest 'rasmalai'  balls dipped in sweetened condensed milk with an exotic flavour of saffron truly brings about the best of both worlds! Equally delectable is their version of the traditional Bengali sweet "raskadam"; with a twist of  a subtle, yet unorthodox dash of rose essence. The shop is a hit when it comes to favourite Indian snacks including several varieties of 'kulcha', 'samosa' and 'dhokla'.

When it comes to Indian snacks; also a must visit is the outlet of "Haldiram's" at Connaught Place which serves mouthwatering ' Chholey Bhature' , ' Raj kachori' in addition to several other snacks and a wide variety of lipsmacking desserts.

What I absolutely adore about Delhi however; is the fact that her flavours aren't confined to these branded outlets and posh food courts. You could walk into just any streetside 'dhaba' and relish a steaming bowl of flavorful 'dal makhni' and rice with spicy 'paneer tikka' by the side; and never end up being disappointed!  In fact, what I enjoy most; is a leisurely evening stroll along the streets adjoining the 'Jama Masjid'-  a paradise for food lovers; the Mecca of ' Mughlai' cuisine!

The place by itself; is no Eden; with perpetually congested, narrow streets swarming with two-wheelers, cycle rickshaws and pedestrians side by side. Vendors; with their voices booming above the general noise; sell cheap merchandise on bargain. You may  even buy a trinket or two for yourself feeling a surge of pride in your bargaining skills; and yet some Delhi based friend of yours may waste no time in pointing out that you've been thugged through and through!  If you're lucky enough; you may even witness a streetside quarrel! In short; those looking out for spacious eateries with a tasteful, candlelit ambience and sparkling cutlery may be in for a thorough disappointment. Indeed, the place doesn't boast those fancy restaurants where attractively garnished food is served with gloved hands; where presentation and hygiene are paramount; and taste is more often than not; neglected! By contrast; every eatout here; be it a restaurant or a solitary outlet serving street food; is perpetually overcrowded and full of commotion!

Well known as "city's most famous culinary destination"; is the ancient restaurant "Karim's" . Established in 1913; the restaurant is now almost synonymous with the place. The chefs here pride themselves as being born of ancestors who served in the kitchens of Badshah Bahadur Shah Jafar and never fail to bring that royal taste to the doorstep of common folk! Another famous eatery " Aslam's chicken" serves mouth watering 'tikkas' in a tangy yoghurt based gravy with 'naan' or ' roti' for main course. After a sumptious dinner a creamy treat of  'shahi tukda' (an exotic bread pudding layered with saffron) and 'phirni' (a rice pudding with a fine flavour of cardamom, traditionally served in earthen pots) for dessert is absolutely  delightful!

Of course; I know for certain that the place has a lot more to offer. The more I roam around this place; the more I realize; how much still remains to be explored! With a heavy heart I wind up this visit; as the sizzle of ' tadka' still reverberates in my ears. Blazing 'tandoors' warm up the streets; the rich aroma of freshly ground spices lingers in the air; and so does a silent promise to visit these alleys yet again- for the love of these 'gullies' and 'mohallas'; for the love of the food they serve; AND  for the love of Delhi!























2 comments: